Small surface tears and loose joints are usually fixable at home. Anything structural, electrical, or on the face is not. The useful skill here is telling the difference before you start, because a failed home repair on silicone is considerably harder to fix than the original damage.
What is genuinely repairable, how, and where to stop.
First: is it a defect or is it damage?
This determines everything, including who pays.
Likely a defect (contact us before touching it): present on arrival · appeared without any incident · a seam separating on its own · a joint that never held from day one · an electrical option that never worked or stopped working within warranty.
Likely damage (yours to repair or ours to quote for): a tear after a fall or a snag · a joint loosened by forcing past its range · a cut from a fingernail, jewellery or zip · anything after an obvious incident.
The windows that matter: transit damage must be reported within 48 hours of delivery with photo or video. Warranty claims go in writing within 7 days of the fault appearing, with photo or video evidence. Six months on her, five on electrical components, plus your local statutory rights on top — set out by market.
If in any doubt, photograph it and ask us before you attempt anything. A repair attempt can complicate a claim.
Small surface tears
A shallow tear up to a couple of centimetres, not at a joint or a high-stress point.
You need: medical-grade silicone adhesive [VERIFY — name the product in your repair kit], a cocktail stick or fine applicator, isopropyl-free cleaner, and something to hold the edges closed.
- Clean and dry the area completely. Adhesive will not bond to a damp or oily surface — this is where most home repairs fail.
- Open the tear gently and work a small amount of adhesive into it. Less than you think.
- Press the edges together and hold. Don't squeeze so hard that adhesive floods out.
- Wipe excess immediately — cured adhesive on the surface is worse than the tear was.
- Leave it fully cured before any load — usually 24 hours [VERIFY per product]. Rushing this is the second most common failure.
- Once cured, a light dusting of powder over the area evens the finish.
Realistic expectation: a good repair is strong and much less visible. It is rarely invisible. A faint line is a normal outcome, not a failed repair.
Deeper tears and stress points
Tears at the neck, armpit, groin, inner thigh or any joint are structural. They sit where the material flexes and carries load, and a surface glue repair will reopen — usually larger.
Stop and contact us. These need either professional repair or replacement, and continuing to use her will make it worse.
Loose joints
A joint that no longer holds a pose is usually a tension fitting that has worked loose, not something broken.
[VERIFY — describe the actual adjustment for your skeleton. Many use accessible tension bolts; some do not. If yours can't be adjusted at home, say so plainly here, because guessing is how people damage a skeleton.]
Do not force a joint past its range to test it. That is how a loose joint becomes a broken one, and skeleton damage is not a home repair at any level.
Finger wires
Fingers contain thin wire that fatigues with repeated bending. A wire that breaks inside a finger leaves it floppy, and sometimes a sharp end near the surface.
If you can feel a sharp point, stop using that hand and contact us. A broken wire can pierce the silicone from the inside, turning a minor fault into a tear.
Replacing finger wire means opening the hand and is not a beginner repair. [VERIFY — do you offer this as a service, and is a hand replaceable?]
Paint and finish
Face paintwork is not a home repair. Colour matching, blending and sealing are the parts of this product that require actual skill, and a touch-up attempt usually looks worse than light wear.
Light wear at high-contact points — nipples, lips, fingertips — is normal over years and is not a defect. If it bothers you, ask us about a professional refresh or a replacement head. A second head is often the better answer and gives you something new as well.
Electrical faults
Heating, sound, motion — none of these are home repairs. Opening a body cavity to reach a component risks a structural tear for a fault that is probably covered anyway.
Electrical components carry five months of warranty. Report the fault in writing within 7 days of noticing it, with video if the fault is intermittent. [VERIFY — the basic checks worth doing first: charge, connection seating, switch position.]
What's in a repair kit
- Silicone adhesive — small tears
- Colour remover — dye transfer, not tears (separate guide)
- Renewal powder — finish after repair
- Applicators and cloths
- [VERIFY — the actual contents of the kit you supply]
When to stop and contact us
Every one of these, no exceptions:
- The tear is at a joint or stress point
- It's longer than a couple of centimetres or goes deep
- Anything on the face
- Any electrical fault
- Skeleton or joint structural damage
- A sharp point you can feel through the skin
- You've attempted a repair and it hasn't held
- You're not sure
That last one is the important one. Send us a photograph before you try anything you are unsure about. We answer questions from owners whose warranty ran out years ago.
Own one already? The full owner guide covers care, storage, repair and transport.
Common questions
Will a repair be invisible?
Rarely. A good one is strong and much less visible. A faint line is a normal outcome.
Can I use superglue?
No. Cyanoacrylate doesn't bond silicone properly and leaves a hard, brittle, discoloured patch that makes proper repair harder afterwards.
How long before I can use her again?
Full cure before any load. Usually 24 hours [VERIFY]. Longer if it's somewhere that flexes.
Does a home repair void the warranty?
It can complicate a claim on that area. Ask us first — that's the whole reason to.
Can you repair it for me?
[VERIFY — do you offer a repair service? If yes, describe it and give an indicative cost. If no, say so and point to what you can do instead.]